Following is our step-by-step process for applying water slide decals. Even though you may have been applying this type of decal since TV was still black-and-white, you might pick up a tip or two that will be useful the next time you dunk a decal.

Before you begin:

 Make sure your work area is well lit. The reason we don't apply decals in a dimly lit room is because of the way they look the next morning when the sun comes up.

 Clean the area thoroughly where the decal will be applied. If your finish will not be affected, we prefer denatured alcohol which does a great job of prepping almost any surface. If you are applying to a painted surface, be sure to test first. Otherwise use soap and water.
Begin by assembling the tools you will need.  To do a top-notch job we use the tools shown here, all of which readily available from paint supply and craft shops. These include a sharp pair of craft scissors, foam-tipped swabs, a 1" foam brush from the paint store, a 3" foam roller and absorbent wipes such as a paper towel or, better yet, a lint-free lab wipe. In addition to these you will need a water container for soaking the decal.
Let's get started! Trim your decal from the sheet within 1/16" to 1/8" from the image. We prefer craft scissors over a hobby knife because you will have more control and less likely to slip and damage the decal. The best we have found for decal trimming are "SQUIZZERS" available from Micro-Mark, their Item #81204. Avoid sharp corners when trimming; rounded corners will lay down better and less likely to get caught when smoothing the decal.
Place your decal in the water container. Use room temp or slightly tepid water. Do not use hot water. The decal will curl and then tend to flatten back out. Check after about 30 to 40 seconds to see if it is loosening from the backing paper by gently trying to slide it from the backing. Do NOT get distracted and let the decal separate from the backing in the water, as it will be much more difficult to apply. Keep checking and take it out just when it begins to slide on the backing.
Position the decal with the backing paper still in place as shown. Note that we have used masking tape to "spot in" the position. If you use tape for this, make sure it will not damage your finish when removed.
Now anchor the decal on the left side, gently and steadily slide the backing paper to the right. Slide, don't lift. Slide it completely away and discard it. Be careful not to tear or stretch the decal during this step. Larger decals are especially prone to this. Go slowly and if the decal begins to stretch or show signs of tearing or kinking, STOP and try going in another direction, or gently lift the decal away from the backing paper.
Use the foam brush or a swab to smooth out the large wrinkles and bubbles, always working from the center outward. A foam brush is much more effective for doing this than a rag, and will not harm the decal. Do not use any kind of paper product for this as it can damage the decal in this state. A suitable substitute for the brush is a soft foam wedge used to apply makeup. If there is a female in the house old enough to wear makeup, chances are she will have some handy.
Once you have worked out the large bubbles and wrinkles (don't worry about the little ones...we will deal with them later), take your paper towel or lab wipe and place it over the decal to cover it. Now, apply light pressure with your palms and fingertips in a blotting motion to remove the excess moisture. DO NOT RUB OR USE ANY KIND OF WIPING ACTION! Rubbing will displace the decal and could damage it. Try not to move the towel as you blot and absorb excess moisture.
For large decals especially, a foam roller is very effective in working out bubbles and small wrinkles. Roll it under your palm and fingers using even pressure. Be aware that this action will most likely move the decal out of position so work quickly. Once it begins to dry it will be very difficult to slide back into position.
Your decal should now be laying flat and in position. Change your line of sight so you are viewing it in reflected light. You will not be able to see small wrinkles and bubbles unless you do this. Use the foam brush or a swab to work out any remaining bubbles and wrinkles. Continue to do this until you are satisfied you have it smoothed out as much as you can.  The very tiny bubbles will disappear as the decal dries.
That's it...mission accomplished. Let the decal dry for a minimum of 8 hours before sealing it. For maximum durability and longevity, we strongly recommend that at a minimum you seal the edges to keep out fuel, oils and cleaning fluids.

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